El Calafate and El Chalten Argentina (Patagonia stop 3)

Our morning began very early as we had a two hour drive back to Puerto Natales and we had to be at the bus station no later than 7:30 AM. Sadly, it was time to say goodbye to Alejandro. It’s kind of weird when you have friends in a different country-when you say goodbye, you’re not sure when you will get to see them again so we just said see you later.

Sunrise photo

Luckily, the bus that we rode from Puerto Natales to El Calafate, a six hour trip, was very comfortable, for sure more comfortable than an airplane seat. Not too far into the drive we all had to get out as we went through Chilean customs and then another stop 15 minutes later as we entered Argentina. This is what greeted us at the Argentine immigration office.I took it as a good sign.

 

Then when we checked into our apartment and this was the check in counter. Already liking Argentina! The cats gave a good welcome.  

After we got settled at the apartment we walked around Main Street for a little bit and got some pizza for lunch. At about 7 PM Matt drove to the airport to meet up with his brothers Mike and Greg, Mike’s wife, Jen, and Christian, Greg’s son. They were going to spend several days with us in Patagonia. After everyone made it back to the apartments, we walked over to this delicious bakery called Don Luis so the rest of the family could get sandwiches for dinner and we could get sweet pastries. This would not be the only time we’d be visiting that bakery during the week. Goodness it was yummy. The next morning started early as we drove out to Glacier Perito Moreno that is inside Argentina‘s Glacier National Park. Today was the day we were doing the hiking trek on the glacier and glaciers what an amazing experience it was! We began by taking a short boat ride over to the other side of the Lago Argentino. We had beautiful views of the glacier while we were on the boat. 

View from the boat

After putting us into groups of 10 to 12 people, we began our trek. It began with hiking about a mile to the edge of the glacier. Of course, we had amazing views all along the way they talked to us about how the glacier moves and changes every season so even though Matt had gone on this glacier trek with Miranda about 14 months ago, the hike was going to be completely different.

When we got next to the glacier, it was time to put on the ice crampons. They were old-fashioned, but could clearly do the job.

Then it was time to walk on the glacier. Walking in the crampons and stomping with each step was very interesting. There was also a very interesting way you had to go down the slopes. It’s not going sideways like you do and hiking boots. I’m so sorry but yet again this is one of those experiences that’s even hard for me to put into words. The glacier was amazing, beautiful, spectacular- just surreal. There were these crevasses and little pools all over. Photos are not great at showing the depth of these. The blue color coming from the ice and pools was brilliant. 

Ready to hike on the glacier!

As we climbed on the ice, the ice of the glacier reacted or broke off much differently than the ice from snowstorms in Utah does.  It broke off into small rounded pebble shapes. The weather was so good this day. We actually got warm hiking around , but it was cloudy enough that there was not a lot of glare from the ice.  

Matt, Greg, Mike

We got to look down into a deep sinkhole that had a waterfall. Here Matt is looking into it. What the photo doesn’t really show is the waterfall part. Needless to say it was spectacular!

Christian drinking the glacier water 

This is the river flow going into that waterfall. Matt, Christian, and Greg all took sips of the fresh glacier water. 

Hiking down a narrow slot

When we got close to the end of the hike they had a drink station with glacier ice and whiskey or glacier water. Our guide just walked over to the glacier and chipped away at the glacier with his ax to get our ice. Then he walked over to a pool of water and got some in a pitcher.   Completely lovely.  

You can kind of see how the ice is in pebble shape instead of shards.  

As we were coming down off the glacier and walking back to the refugio, we witnessed an enormous ice calving. A small part had just broken off and we could hear the cracking noises so we knew where to look. Yes I know it’s a sign of global warming, but it’s also a very natural process as the glacier moves.  All the same it was spectacular and awe inspiring. Once back to the refugio, we had about a half an hour to sit and relax before getting back on the boat.  

Matt and his brothers looking at the glacier 

After getting back to main land, we drove over to Pasarelas Glaciar Perito Moreno- a glacier overlook area. First up was an amazing lunch. Don’t worry, more talk of Argentina’s AMAZING food later.  After eating we walked on some of the many trails/walkways they had to see the glacier.

We had some pretty amazing experiences here. We saw a condor majestically flying over the glacier. We also witnessed a few spectacular ice calvings. I could have just stayed there for hours watching the glacier. It was so resplendent and beautiful!

However, soon it was time head back to El Calafate. After relaxing for a bit we headed out to walk around Main Street. Walking around were these very interesting birds. Never looked up what they were, but I did get this photo.

Matt had a reservation for 7 at a restaurant, Nina’s, that Miranda and him loved when they were here. Oh glaciers, it did not disappoint! The provoleta, fried cheese, was a toasted culinary paradise! I’m just going to say up front, I have a lot of food photos for Argentina and they all deserve a spot here.  The food has been one of the best parts of our experience here. It seemed that every meal got better than the last. 

Calafate berry cheesecake that Christian and I shared was heavenly! 

We all enjoyed the chocolates that were filled with dulce de leche. 

The next morning we got on the road fairly early to drive to El Chaltén. It was a beautiful drive, most of it along a large, very turquoise lake. I loved our first view of El Chalten.  It is this beautiful town nestled in a mountain bowl.  It’s just surrounded by these amazing peaks. Sadly it was overcast and we couldn’t see the best of them, but it was still very impressive. 

We got checked into our Airbnb, picked up some sandwiches from the cafe across the street and walked right to the trailhead to begin our first hike- Laguna Torre.

The first part of this hike was fairly steep as we got up above and over the foothills of the town, but after that it mellowed out with alternating patches of uphill and flat. This made the hike much more doable.

The hike itself was very beautiful. It drizzled some, but we didn’t get too wet. Mostly it was just cloudy enough to block the views of the peaks and glaciers.

When we got to the Mirador del Cerro Torre (about 2.37 miles up) Jen and I decided to head back down.  It was nice just having the time to visit. So our total hike was about 4.73 miles. After resting for a bit we went and walked around the Main Street for a bit. 

Meanwhile Matt, Mike, Greg, and Christian hiked up to the end to see the lake-Laguna Torre, if there were no clouds they could have seen Cerro Torre, but the view of the lake was still spectacular. The views of the glacier at the upper end of the lake or spectacular. Greg and Christian explored a giant boulder that had cracked in half while Mike and Matt watched from above.Their total hike was about 13 miles. They hiked down as fast as they could to make it down for dinner time. 

When the boys got back down it was 8pm and we were all hungry. Greg looked at Yelp and found a highly rated restaurant right next door so he booked a reservation for 9 so the boys could shower.  When we got to the restaurant we realized it was a one price, two options (veggie or beef), 5 course dinner.  Expensive, but we were all in and we soon found out, 100% worth it!!! Oh my glaciers it was amazing! We totally stuffed ourselves! Fire grilled meat with SO much flavor.  Wish I could have gotten a better photo of the grills. Here’s the closest I got.

It was a two hour meal so by the time we were done it was quite late.

The next morning started a bit later with brunch at the yummy cafe across the street. We originally had a river rafting trip planned for the morning but it got canceled a few days prior. The company had a terrible accident on the river where three tourists died when boats tipped over. Glad we weren’t on the water that day. Also with our late night having a slower morning was wonderful.  

Look at that avocado toast!

Earlier in the morning Matt and Greg went on a hike/run to an overlook spot and saw that the clouds had lifted and we could now see the peaks. So after brunch we all headed over to where that trail started so we could all see the view.  

Just INCREDIBLE! Those jagged peaks of Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre are not peaks we see where we live. From 2-7pm Matt, Greg, and Christian went on a via ferrata excursion that was exciting and beautiful. Via ferrata is a type of rock climbing that uses cables, fixed anchors and supports in the rock to make it safe for even inexperienced, climbers. The system they used ensured that you were always connected to the anchors. There was absolutely no way to fall unless you were to take your climbing harness all the way off. Matt even faced his fear of heights and made it all the way to the top of the rocks and cliffs. Jen and Mike decided to do a couple of shorter hikes. I opted for some much needed down time. Napping and reading and being lazy was just what I needed.  I spent time reading in our back yard with an amazing view.  Sadly it was super windy so I didn’t stay out there too long. Have I mentioned how freaking windy Patagonia has been in general. So windy! Anyhow, I very much enjoyed my major rest time. 

This is a photo Mike and Jen took on their overlook hike

At the top of the Via Ferrata

Once they got back from their excursion we all met up again for dinner down the street from our apartment. It was finally a smaller dinner.  It was nice because we all still had energy for playing games. We ended up playing a few games of Bank, a fun dice gambling game. Our first game the score got pretty high with Greg winning. The next game was super low scoring with Mike winning.  

The big hike of the trip came the next morning.  The Fitz Roy hike. Jen, Mike and I planned to do the 7 miles to Laguna Capri and the others planned to do the whole 16 miles up to Laguna de los Tres. It was another beautiful hike. This one was a bit steeper of a climb however.  

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View of the town

Sadly the weather was not on our side.  It was a bit drizzly on the way up. When we got to our viewpoint at Laguna Capri we couldn’t see much.  This was our view,

This was the view Matt and Miranda got when they did the same hike in Nov 2023. 

Oh well.

That’s the risk when you have set days to do the hike and not enough slack in the schedule to work around the weather. We decided a full week or more here would be ideal. Anyhow, after talking a shot break to eat a snack Mike, Jen, and I began our trek back and the other three continued on to the top. Shortly after we split up it began raking in earnest.  We got wet-very wet- and the trail became slushy/muddy.  I was so thankful to have poles. At one point I slid quite a bit but stayed upright thanks to the poles. Kind of felt like I was skiing.  The rain let up with about a mile to go so we were able to dry out some before we were done. I ended up hiking 6.42 miles.  

After getting back and taking showers we headed across the street for hot chocolate and cheesecake. Then it was nap time while we waited for the others to return. 

The rest of the hike for Matt, Greg, and Christian was amazing. They got soaking wet with the rain and thought about turning back but decided to power through. The last mile or so was very steep and challenging, but they all made it to La Laguna los Tres and the spectacular views of that lake and Laguna Sucia. Matt says this is one of the top five hikes of his life!

Laguna Sucia and Laguna Los Tres

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Can you see the fox?

Our cabin/Airbnb

After the boys got back and showered off their stink we decided to go for a simple meal this night and went out for sandwiches and burgers. The salty fries were just what we all needed.  It’s been so sad. South American countries don’t have Dr Pepper. I’m missing it! A Dr Pepper would have tasted heavenly after the hike today. 

Tonight we also all got a text from Matt’s sister Audrey that our new niece was born. Welcome to the Hatch family Evelyn! Grandchild #38 and almost for sure the last. There are already 4 great grandchildren with the 5th coming later this year.  It was fun to be with family as we got that news. 

We were able to have a very slow morning on Thursday. It was nice not to rush out. After checking out at 11, we had another amazing meal at the cafe across the street for brunch.  Dulce de leche pancakes and hot cocoa? Yes please! 

After brunch we drive out to the waterfall Mike and Jen hiked to on Tuesday. It was beautiful! It was a great last stop in El Chalten before beginning our drive back to El Calafate. 

We also got a very clear view of Fitz Roy as we were headed out of town. 

We saw several more condors too. So cool! 

This time in El Calafate we stayed at the other end of Main Street.  Once we got settled in our hotel we went out to the main area asks played a game of up and down the river. Then we headed out to do some shopping and have dinner. 

Dinner was again at Nina’s and was again delicious! Seriously we have eaten so well here. 

After dinner Greg and Christian came with us to the Yeti Ice Bar.  Matt and Miranda had come here on their trip and I really wanted to go too.  Super cheesy, but a fun experience. They give you parkas and ice cramps and then you have 25 minutes gaming out in a frozen bar made from ice. Even the shot glasses and some of the regular glasses were made from ice. 

Lots of blue light and the cold made for some funky photos. 

We spent the rest of the evening eating the yummy Argentina candy and playing cards together. Yes even the candy and treats are good.  I’m not usually a candy person, but these candies that are like nerds clusters and the jelly beans are yum-o! It was a great way to end our time in Patagonia.  Tomorrow we fly to Buenos Aires!

Christian looking good with his gummy candy teeth